Bodysurfing

—Becoming the surf

Bodysurfing is an exhilarating sport that can be enjoyed by any strong swimmer with access to a gently sloping ocean beach. No equipment is required. A bathing suit and rash guard are helpful.

The primary skill is joining the wave as it breaks and riding the wave until it dissipates on the beach.

Safety

Become a strong swimmer and gain experience in a variety of surf conditions before attempting bodysurfing.

Partner with another strong swimmer who can assist in case of emergency.

Avoid obstacles including other bathers, board surfers, submerged rocks or other debris, pilings, watercraft, and other dangers.

Choose a wave suited to your skill level and experience. Start small. Do not attempt to ride short beach break waves (dumpers). Ocean waves dissipate significant energy. This is both the thrill and danger in the sport.

Learn from experts.

Venues

Gently sloping ocean beaches provide excellent venues for bodysurfing. Many suitable locations exist around the world. I have enjoyed bodysurfing at these locations:

New Jersey Southern Shore,
East Central Florida

Wave formation

Understanding how ocean waves form and studying the surf allows bodysurfers to be in the right place at the right time to catch a wave that will provide a safe and enjoyable ride.

When waves enter shallow water they slow down. This causes an increase in wave height, and eventually causes the waves to break. When a swell reaches shallow water, it is slowed down and releases its energy in the form of breaking waves.

Ocean waves often progress through these various forms as they approach the shore:

Swells are broad undulations of the ocean surface.
Rolls begin to form as the ocean depth decreases. This happens close to the shore or may be caused by a sand bar or shoal slightly offshore.
The wave will crest as the roll approaches shallower water.
The crest will curl immediately before it breaks.

Undertow is the under-current that is moving offshore when waves are approaching the shore. Undertow is a natural and universal feature for almost any large body of water: it is a return flow compensating for the onshore-directed average transport of water by the waves in the zone above the wave troughs. The undertow's flow velocities are generally strongest in the surf zone, where the water is shallow and the waves are high due to shoaling.

Catching a wave

The primary skill is joining the wave as it breaks and riding the wave until it dissipates on the beach.

Choose the wave carefully and locate yourself low in the surf at the base of the curl just as the curl begins to break. Lunge forward to match your speed with the speed of the wave. If you get this right, the wave will lift you and carry you forward within the turbulence of the breaking wave.

You are likely to feel the undertow as you join the breaking wave.

Waves often occur in sequences of a few similarly-shaped waves. If you are out of place for catching this wave, let it go by and get into position for the next wave. It is likely to be similar.

Riding a wave

Riding a wave while bodysurfing.

When you are in the wave remain horizontal and rigid with your arms outstretched above your head, hands together with palms down. If it sounds and feels like the wave is tearing you apart, you are probably doing things right! Remain in the wave for as long as you can hold your breath, or until the wave has carried you onto the beach. It may be helpful to lower your hands slightly so you can feel the beach rising underneath you.

The image on the right demonstrates this posture.

When you reach the shore, stand up, face the surf, and catch the next wave.

Variations

Advanced bodysurfers can catch and ride large waves.

Bodysurfers have created a variety of ways to enjoy the sport.

Swimming strokes, and especially kicks are useful for propelling yourself forward to better catch and ride the wave. This is essential in deeper water where you cannot push off the ocean floor.

Some bodysurfers keep their head forward of or above the churn when riding a wave so they can breathe to extend the ride.

Advanced bodysurfers use equipment such as handboards and swimfins to catch and ride larger waves.

Resources

Although it is difficult to find bodysurfing references that meet the Wikipedia standards for reliable sources, here is a candidate list:

Drummond, Ron (1931). The Art of Wave Riding. pp. 26.
Keith Malloy, Bill “Nirvik" Coleman, Mark Cunningham, Michael Pizzo, Chris Malloy, Tim Lynch (2011). Come Hell or High Water (DVD). Woodshed Films.
The Encyclopedia of Surfing entry on bodysurfing. (Requires subscription for full access.)